Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Career Volunteer

Career Volunteer
This last Monday turned out pretty well, but started off with a real punch in the face.
Just for sake of setting the scene a bit… the previous Wednesday I had been in Marrakech (where they have good internet) to watch my sister’s wedding LIVE from Jamaica via webcam. I really wished I could’ve been there, a pretty little spot by the ocean; but ever the volunteer, I still had about six months left to go on my term in the Peace Corps. Wishing I’d been somewhere else that day began with the first of two shoving matches I had gotten into with punks on the street who felt the need to shoot their mouths off at my friends (one female, the other of Asian descent [plenty of people here think it’s acceptable to "talk trash" in the street and seem genuinely surprised that someone is going to do something about it.])
So coming back from ‘Kech to my provincial capital of Azilal, my EMT buddy and I stopped by the local Protection Civile station. Behind the high gate, the guys were playing soccer against a cement wall when we showed up unannounced. They saw the two aromi (Moroccan Arabic: Foreigner) and seemed to wonder what we wanted… "Nous voulons jouer!," I shouted. ("We want to play!")
Ice broken: I explained as best I could that we were EMTs in the States and wanted to have a sit-down kind of info swap with these obviously well-equipped, well-trained fire and medical responders. We all shook hands, exchanged greetings (in the very thorough local style). They told us we were very welcome, but just to come back the next Monday when the chief would be there. Great! Our little ambulance project was stepping up from the countryside to the main stage.
Later that night the rain and the snow began to fall seriously for the first time this season. The damp weather only made the cheap soup we ate for dinner that night so much the better. For the fact that Moroccan soups are really good and cheap, many of my meals are heavily soup-based.
The rain continued in Azilal and the snow in the mountains where I live through the weekend until the next Monday when the action of the story really begins.
As per usual, to get out of my village it’s necessary to be down the hill and at curbside by about 4am to catch the van as it goes by. It usually doesn’t rain very much up here; and up until that day I had never stood there in the rain (cold yes, but until then, I’d had the luck.) It wasn’t a heavy rain and I even wore my new coat… a present for a recent holiday (Eid-Kebir, where we sacrificed a live goat) from my host-family who are of limited means. It was a nice gesture, but I’m almost sure it’s a women’s coat.
As I stood there for over an hour in the dark and the rain it became more and more obvious that I was the only idiot who wanted to go to Azilal on that particular morning. I guessed that many in my village (and at Protection Civile too) would’ve just said ‘go another day;’ but that wouldn’t be stubbornly American of me. I said I’d be there.
The only other way to get out is to hike out two hours to the intersection of the road to the larger town on the other side of the valley. Peace Corps has two other volunteers there, both from my group. I set out, walking in the dark and the drizzle. After only a minute or so I stepped on a rock which I hadn’t seen, rolled my ankle and jammed my knee in the pavement. I caught myself on my palms before it was my chin too. I probably looked bad, but I jumped right up, as if to prove to all the people who weren’t there that I was OK. My only thought was about my camera (still safe, if not damp in my backpack) and whether or not I’d bleed through my long-johns and pants. It was unlikely, but I couldn’t tell in the dark. Limping for a few paces, I pushed on; but I began thinking about why I was A) in the Peace Corps, B) on a mountain in Morocco, C) walking in the dark and the rain when everybody knew Protection Civile wasn’t going anywhere and no one would be the worse off if we did this later in the week, and D) why do I keep volunteering for things? After all, since university I’ve been in a volunteer military, a volunteer EMT and now a volunteer in the Peace Corps.
If there is some higher calling and duty, then let it be a duty to honesty… If I’m really being honest with myself (and I think oneself is the easiest person to lie to) then I’d say I’m doing all this because I crave the adventure and the challenge. I like proving to myself (and to others, I guess) that I can; and it’s all fun for the most part. And I get to learn a lot about people, places, myself… I guess it works out. As long as I’m out looking for feats of strength to perform, I may as well make myself useful and do something for someone else.
Nothing profound there… you’re cynical philosophers will say that no one does anything for anyone else, but only the selfish satisfaction of having done it. Others have said that the satisfied feeling is the great reward for helping people. I guess, being a career volunteer, I’ve always kinda grappled with the two and wondered what I was really doing. The honesty feels good though. I know it’s a bit of both.
There are definitely days when we don’t really feel the gratitude we think we deserve or we see that we are more motivated than the people we think we’re helping; on those days it’s pretty obvious we’re out here for our own sense of accomplishment. But that doesn’t mean we don’t want to help. There’s no way out of this circle, so I suppose that accepting it is the only way to ride in style. That’s all.
Oh, and I did make it to Protection Civile (and only about 5min late). The assistant chief (about late-twenties and in his sharp uniform looked a ton better than I did crawling in from the backwoods exhausted, drenched and freezing, however bundled I still was in my blue women’s coat and tattered pants… my now old, but formerly waterproof boots soaked from having to help push our van through a small river of mountain runoff water earlier that morning.
Our little info swap session at first went awkwardly. My friend and I brought another guy (a local from Azilal) to help translate, but even with that help; this young asst. chief still didn’t really understand what we wanted. I’m sure he first thought that these two Americans were there to rescue to the poor Moroccans. Still, he was polite and welcoming, but he had a look that seemed to say he didn’t ‘need’ our help. Finally, we got through the idea that we wanted to learn from them as well and even then he wasn’t sure what exactly to tell us.
I realized it was a hard question to ask… Tell me about some of those little tips and tricks you pick up along the way, I was saying. (By the way, tips and tricks really doesn’t translate well.) We had a few prepared which we passed on as we sat around a couch and small table in his office. He finally broke out his procedural manual; it was old and French, but it did the job. He flipped open to any page and basically started talking about anatomy and physiology basics; but all of that started real conversations. The three of us discussed techniques for giving oxygen to unconscious patients (with and without spinal injuries), what to do in cases involving pregnant women and we contributed a bit about monitoring brain function after head injuries. It was exactly what it should have been; and luckily almost all of these words come from Greek and Latin so English to French wasn’t a big deal.
We also saw their ambulance and fire trucks. They’ve got some hi-tech stuff. Their ambulance can carry three patients, two better than us. If you’re familiar, on the ‘bench’ side, they can essentially set up this sort of bunk bed operation that puts two patients above the bench. Pretty cool. We all learned something, we did our jobs and perhaps most importantly… I had my little adventure for the day.
Mission: Accomplished

Heil Apfelfuhrer

Heil Apfelfuhrer
Why am I subjected to such extremes around here?
In other times and places it often seemed that things naturally homogenized; here things seem to hold balance by remaining equally divided at the opposite ends of my mind.
If you’ve been patient enough to keep reading, thank you, and here is the answer to the first, obvious question… Apfelfuhrer was a short-lived anti-Nazi movement which sprang up in Germany a few years ago in response to an even shorter-lived Nazi revival. Rather than a black swastika in the center of their red flag, the group used an apple as their symbol. Why? I suppose it’s about as ridiculous a thing to salute as a swastika. The whole intent was to bring down the neo-Nazis by mocking them with farcical uniforms and flags. It worked. Way to be.
Now why bring it up? Because people around here constantly keep me on my toes by either being shockingly wonderful or bafflingly awful. And, I suppose, it’s only different from other places because, here people constantly feel the need to remind me how lovely and welcoming all the people are here… all the people are here. Sometimes, yeah…
(And maybe this is just a little down-time sour grapes… This scale I’ve described really doesn’t include the few honestly great friends I’ve made around here… people I will think about always; and I’m grateful for that. This scale is more for the nameless people in the background who, unlike in other places, just don’t seem to stay in the background and be nice and neutral. Everyone has to be on one side or the other, and that’s the odd thing.)
So without prices posted on most everything, the "tourists," whether speaking native-languages or not, pay more for things. Sometimes we put up a fight and I feel like Mike Huckabee (or whoever it is these days) arguing for a flat sales tax because "it’s fair" that everyone pay the same thing. Maybe I am better off, but it still feels slimy and racist to charge people more because of their appearance and estimated net worth (estimated by appearance). And, surprise, it recently happened… I paid some little kid (maybe 11 or 12) the normal five dirhams for a sandwich and he insisted on two more. One more, I might have believed, but still, I was about to let it slide and handed him another 5 asking for my change. When I saw the smirk on his face, after his big score, I pushed the sandwich back on the counter, threw the change on the floor and walked away. Petty, perhaps; but for the kid it was probably his lucky day…he got ten dirham and a sandwich, just for trying to get away with one on me.
I went over to a café to get a coffee, since it looked like I wouldn’t be eating lunch that day. As to not pay another tourist rate, I asked how much the coffee was beforehand. Another kid waiter didn’t understand my Berber, I tried in Arabic, I tried in French, I tried in Arabic again, I tried in Berber again and we were both about to give up when another man at the café stepped in to save me… and I was given the fair price of five dirhams. After the coffee arrived, our translator offered me some dates that he and his family were sharing. And again, I was overcome with this wonder about this question of everyone being so delightful or not. It was pretty nice of this guy to help me translate a bit and then share the dates with just some tourist and his giant backpack.
So then I got on the bus and knocked out soon enough. I woke up and saw the high school-aged kid across from me studying from a book he had drawn a big swastika on. My first reaction was to start yelling, perhaps ask him if he had anything to say or do… as long as I was "right here." I reeled it in though. My guess is that this guy didn’t really want me and my family dead. I seem to have gathered up enough evidence to support the theory that many people around here have next to no idea about what happened during the Nazi years and probably use it more as an anti-Israel (as opposed to anti-Jewish) than anything else… not that I love seeing it.
The other problem is, of course, that if I’m off "picking fights," not that carrying swastikas isn’t already asking for a fight, I’d sorta become exactly what they think I am: a Jewish stone-cold killin’ machine. (Take that Woody Allen stereotype!) So, I just went back to sleep wondering why this guy is so welcoming and what he actually meant by his swastika.
So then it was break-time on the bus. We stopped by some roadside fruit stands in a roadside town. I stepped out for some fresh air and saw one of the fruit vendors from one of my last trips home from Marrakech. He got up and offered me the crate he was sitting on. We spoke for a second in Arabic and as I was about to run out of words he asked that we switch to French so he could practice. That slightly improves my vocabulary.
I told him about the work I’d been doing in ‘Kech and he asked about New York, etc. After a few seconds he offered me an apple or two (for free obviously), we ate, he excitedly introduced me to another worker there as a guy who speaks Berber. They were both excited; it’s a common scene.
The bus honked its horn, break-time was over, I said goodbye to my new friends and sat back down on the bus across from the Nazi. And that’s when I thought of the apfelfuhrer thing.
Is that a good conclusion for the story? I wish I could say that things all worked out in the end. I guess they did in the sense that life just goes on. I don’t think anyone learned a valuable lesson. I think everyone involved is exactly the same.
So since none of us are any bit the better off, I’ll just say a danke scheone to the apfelfuhrer crowd. There’re some people who I can say were going out of their way to do it right. Heil Apfelfuhrer!
 

Thursday, October 13, 2011

It's All About ME!


I guess I should explain the long hiatus...
Despite what people say and all those heart-warming movies which tell us that anything is possible as long as you can dream it, I guess I'm (again) putting the journalism dream on the back shelf... and I had been for a while, at least as a career option.
I'm gonna be a doctor now. That's the new idea. It seems like it still may afford me the opportunity to do some good, get out on some more adventures and possible even write about it all someday, plus I really loved my EMS days. So, I've got a long road ahead, but I do know that: one must do something. As much as I love journalism, I don't think it's wi$e at this point to keep pressing the issue as a career choice... not enough money there to keep me off of people's couches. Oh well. So for that reason, I guess I felt like the blog (which at one point was intended as some kind of clip portfolio) was too much trouble to maintain, especially given how infrequently I get to a good internet connection. Then add on top of that the cracking of the screen of my pretty pink laptop which I bought and later discovered... was pink. That's true, ask anybody.

The New Plan

So instead of writing sample articles employing all of the fine journalistic principles and techniques which I have learned, I will succumb to the 'new school' of any idiot can say whatever he/she wants whenever he/she wants and what's more crazy is that other people sometimes even read it. In this case I really only expect family and close friends to 'read it,' so I guess that's not so crazy.
And one more thought on the death of journalism... It seems to me that as long as we're all going to be 'journalists' now. Reporting via blogs, Twitter, Facebook, phone-cams, etc., why not teach more journalism in school, right? Are they already doing this? I live in Morocco, I don't know... Teach kids how to blog. Make them responsible journalists early on, then even if there's still no money in journalism, perhaps some more quality material will rise up from the gutters of the internet.

The Lost Nav

So I wasn't really lost after all... I was just changing directions. Now I'll just carry on like every other clown writing about what he saw or did that day.

Guess what everybody! I just taught my first two ambulance driver training sessions with my buddy Andy out here in the Peace Corps! Woo! [Really Big Smiley Face!] [Winking Smiley Face!]

The program is developing as we see what these drivers really know and don't know, but they, as well as some of the docs and nurses at these rural clinics seem to dig our scene. [Winking Smiley Face]

We gave them some backboards and collars and set them up with some equipment they should be carrying like, gloves, tape, blankets and jazz like that. [Smiley Face with half-note in background as a play on my use of the word 'jazz' to mean: stuff Face]

This project had been in the works for about a year and a half which sounds like a long time, but is really only about a week or two in "Peace Corps condensed time." So it's not that bad. Those few days or months, depending on which calendar you use, were spent convincing my supervisors this was a good idea, confirming the interest on the part of these drivers spread throughout my province (Azilal), finding a supply company for the equipment, writing a grant, getting grant approved by Rabat, by Washington, waiting for the money to arrive, paying the Casablanca supply company for the backboards and collars, waiting on the delivery of the backboards and collars, distributing materials, and finally scheduling and executing these training sessions. [Smiley Face with Sweat Flying Off It's Face, Face]

Also, I'd like to mention that in early September I helped teach a little journalism clinic in the city of Ouarzazate. I met a really good group of kids who are actually show some enthusiasm for journalism and using it to improve their lives and their communities... Imagine that. I'm also a little jealous, I gotta say, that they come from a place where journalism may not quite be dead yet. Go crack heads!, I say to them.

And for me it gave me a little motivation to get back writing again... even if it is in this new, modern, everyone's-a-reporter now way.

So I will sign off here:

"This has been the Lost Nav blog, from Morocco, Lost Nav reporting."