Hostel territory - New Delhi, Dec. 27, 2009

Travel log:

New Delhi is a planned city for its residents and its tourists.

Neighborhoods spread out and are connected by broad thoroughfares and highway overpasses.

(Old) Delhi is a byzantine labyrinth of muddy streets, stalls, shops and hawkers.

The winter brings a harshness to a newcomer. It's somehow asymmetric for the mind to see the locals are wrapped in blankets and jackets to keep warm while a Northerner's body is comfortable in the mild enough 55F. The weather is just cold enough to keep standing water in the streets packed with two-, three- and four-wheeled vehicles and two- and four-legged creatures.

The hawkers are more persistent with their better English than in Mumbai.

The frequent call of "yes, boss?" in Mumbai change in Delhi's Main Bazar. Rows and rows of saree shops, shoe stores, spice/teas stands are lined with slick English-speakers who follow the foreigners: "Hey, where you from, mate?" "What're you lookin' for?" "Need rickshaw?" "Hey New York, nice cap, where'd you get it?" "Where from? Deutchland, ja?" "Hey, why don't you wanna talk to me, c'mon, where you from?"

Most are offering rides by bicycle or autorickshaw to tourist attractions, others sell hash and others who knows what.

Coming from the Ramakrishna Ashram Marg metro station take a left at the open air urinals just off the main road on Gali Chandiwali. At the end of the alley you'll find Hotel The Spot.

Tread carefully as the narrow lane is just wide enough to fit a motorcycle or bicycle and the locals will try. Fear not the smell from the public urinal stalls at the corner; clouds of incense waft from snack stalls selling tea, chocolates, peanuts and packaged crisps.

Nestled between two internet cafes, both with unfinished basement decor, is the hotel. $10 per night buys a tourist a gritty and earthy room which really lends the feeling of finding a bargain. The fourth floor walk-up boasts a minimally functional shower and Western-style toilet. (Toilet paper is available for purchase at the front desk.) A guest must call 10 minutes ahead for the hot water to be turned on.

The dirty room with its stained sheets, pillow cases and towels features no closet or chest of drawers. A television with some Western cable selections sits under an air conditioner that vents not into a window, but an air shaft.

Most items on the room service menu are serviceable and are usually available, according to the staff which frequently pushes alcoholic beverages with any order.

"What, buddy you don't drink?"

As always in India, exact change is very appreciated. Do be sure to wipe clean the silverware before use... to say nothing of the plates.

A sleeping bag in the hallway is also available for the frugal traveler. Check with reception for rates. For all the guests, please try to keep the snoring to a minimum.

The Spot is close to public transportation, but remember to ask for a business card which features a small map. No taxi or rickshaw driver will be able to find this little gem.

Rating: 4 of 5 dead roaches.